Patagonia who does not know that expression which is used for the area south of Puerto Montt. Geographically Patagonia does start 200 km south of Santiago - but just on Argentinian territory. Paved roads end on the Chiloe island just south of Puerto Montt. There the famous Carretera Austral starts to wind its way until it is stopped by the the vast glaciers south of Coihaique. From December through March the route is in quite good condition and can be (theoretically) done by normal cars as well. Sudden heavy rainshowers can bring up inconquerable obstacles. In other seasons sometimes not even 4x4 off-road vehicles will tackle the route. South of the Carretera Austral there is no progressing on Chilean soil, so one has to cross over to Argentina, for example to get to the famous national park Torres del Paine. On Argentinan territory it is the Ruta 40 which leads down further south. Unfortunately there are hardly any gas stations - a break down can turn out to be a real misfortune. But this can be avoided by using the paved roads winding down on the eastern part of Argentina. Either way, seeing the south of Chile is a very impressing experience.
Routes course
Day 1 |
Puerto Montt - Ancud - Castro
Puerto Montt is just as beautiful as the majority of Chilean towns - unfortunately that does not mean to much. The old train station in Baquedano and La Portada, an old rock gate, are worth visiting. The paved rout leading from Antofagasta to Iquique is a good alternative to the Panamericana.
Port city Ancud is located on the norther peak of the Chiloe island. Colorous fisher boats, sealions, the spanish fort and tiny restaurants offering delicious Curanto are the heart and soul of this town. It is a good base to visit the Playa Brava coast and the pinguin island Punhuil.
Off the center of Castro one will encounter wooden huts called Palafitos which are built on stilts. A pink coloured cathedral is located on the main square. A bit north of Castro the market of Dalcahue offers various souvenirs.
Day 2 |
Castro - Chaiten - National Park Pumalin
A ferry from Castro or Quello to Chaiten brings one back to the main land. The surrounding of Chaiten offer the Pumalin park and the "El Amarillo" hot springs. More south there is a pass to Argentina to the amongst aquatic athletes well known city of Futaleufu.
A non-governmental park run by north-american Douglas Tompkins offers hiking, camping and high quality restaurants in a beautiful nature environment.
Day 3 |
Chaiten - Carretera Austral - Puyuhuapi
Puyuhuapi really is at the end of the world. Located at a fjord it is a perfect base for excursions to the Queulat national park and the luxurious hot springs.
Day 4 |
Puyuhuapi - Puerto Aisén
Puerto Aisen is surrounded by a lot of woods, rivers, creeks, fjords and glaciers. Salmon-fishing is just as interesting as visiting the different national parks. Puerto Chacabuco is the entrance door to this region and the harbour offers a variety of catamarans and boats to lagoons and the San Rafael glacier.
Day 5 |
Puerto Aisén - Coihaique
The pentagonally shaped form of the town primarily seems strange and needs getting used to. Just outside one will find pure untouched nature. The national pakr Coihaique offers different hikes and in the nature reserve Huemul it is not unlikely to see Andean-Deer. A must see is also the landscape in the national park Cerro Castillo located more south.